An Insider’s Guide to Monument Valley, Arizona-Utah
An iconic symbol of the Southwestern USA, Monument Valley is a desert landscape punctuated by red sandstone formations, slender pinnacles and massive buttes straddles the Arizona-Utah state line about 508 kilometers north of Phoenix, Arizona.
Wind and water have carved this starkly magnificent country over millions of years. It is a part of the Navajo Nation, which is the Navajo tribe’s almost 7 million-hectare homeland. The public first learned about Monument Valley thanks to early Hollywood filmmakers who produced films like John Wayne’s Stagecoach (1939). Since then, the area has drawn countless tourists over the years.
What to See
The panorama that you see in so many pictures and movies is the first thing you see of Monument Valley when you walk into the park’s tourist center. The three tallest rocks in the valley are the East and West Mitten Buttes (so named because they look like hands with thumbs spread apart) and Merrick Butte, which rise sharply from the desert floor in the distance.
Valley Drive is a 27-kilometer dirt road in the park that goes from the tourist center through the middle of the valley. The road is rough and bumpy, but most passenger cars should be able to handle it as long as they are driven slowly and the weather is dry.
Nearly a dozen pullouts along the drive offer great views of sandstone formations with names like the Totem Pole and Elephant Butte. As you take pictures and stretch your legs, keep in mind that you are not allowed to hike into the desert.
People love to visit John Ford’s Point because it has wooden booths where Navajo people sell jewelry, art, and other crafts. The wide, dramatic view is named for John Ford, the director who used the valley as a setting for many Western movies, such as Stagecoach.
If you want to drive slowly, give yourself two hours to complete the trip.
The Mittens and Merrick Butte, seen from the edge of Monument Valley
What to Do
Even though Valley Drive is full of beautiful views, many tourists still want to see more of this amazing scenery. Navajo-led trips are the only way to do that because they go to places that independent travelers can’t get to.
The famous 3.5-hour tours take place in a flatbed truck with four-wheel drive and room for 20 people. Along with Valley Drive, you can explore the wilderness and see sandstone arches such as the Sun’s Eye and the very dramatic, round Ear of the Wind. To make the experience even better, some guides will sing a traditional Navajo song.
Want a private tour, even if it costs more? There are companies that offer four-wheel-drive trips in Monument Valley and the nearby Mystery Valley. These trips can be tailored to fit your hobbies, such as Native American rock art or photography. You can also go on guided horseback rides and walks.
Only the 5.1-kilometer Wildcat Trail, which goes around West Mitten Butte and is mostly flat, can be hiked without a Navajo guide in the park. There aren’t many people walking on the sandy road, and you can see the huge butte from all sides. The trail starts at the edge of the parking lot for the tourist center. Allow two and a half hours, bring a lot of water, and try to avoid the middle of the day in the summer, when temperatures often reach 32 degrees Celsius.
The Goulding’s Trading Post Museum at Goulding’s Lodge is a must-see for people who like Western movies. The house was “John Wayne’s cabin” in the 1949 movie She Wore a Yellow Ribbon. It now has displays about the film history of the area.
Cinema fans should make sure they view the Monument Valley landscape from John Ford’s Point
Where to Stay
Basic yet comfortable Goulding’s Lodge was the valley’s only hotel for many decades until 2008, when the Navajo tribe opened the upscale The View Hotel, perched on the valley rim. There are nearby campers, eateries, and tiny grocery stores on both locations.
If the hotels are full, which is common during summer, find budget motels in the nearby towns of Kayenta, Arizona, and Mexican Hat, Utah.